Cardigan Bay Mackerel
Festival
It is a busy scene outside the Harbourmaster as Aberaeron
gets ready to honour the humble mackerel and to celebrate its plentiful supply
along the length of Cardigan Bay. But this is the end of August so is also the
time to mourn the passing of another fishing season. What better time to hold a
procession?
Locals line the streets of the town, jostling to secure a
great viewing point and enjoying the summer sunshine as they wait expectantly
for it all to start. Cameras at the ready, Ipads and phones charged up, all
eyes go towards the sound of the band and the wailing voices coming slowly
along Market Street on the mackerel’s last journey of the year.
The deep, rhythmic beat of drums and saxophones of the New
Orleans style band lead the procession forward. Behind the band, the 20-foot
papier-mache mackerel is pulled along, sun glinting off its shiny silver and
blue-green sides, huge eyes staring out at the onlookers along the pavements.
The mourners weep and wail loudly, all dressed in black, masks hiding their
faces and elaborate feathered head-dresses blowing in the breeze. Passers-by
join in with the weeping, bowing their heads in sorrow and grief.
The procession moves on around the harbour, traffic held
back as it crosses the bridge to turn along the south of the harbour. When it
reaches the quay, the eulogy and blessing are pronounced by Rev. Dilwyn O Jones
and everyone stands back as the mackerel is set alight ready to be returned to
the sea at high tide. The atmosphere changes instantly to one of celebration,
drinks flowing freely at the Yacht Club, a barbecue, music and dancing until
late. What a fantastic end to another
successful mackerel season.
Notes: Cardigan Bay is an excellent habitat for mackerel
and, thankfully, we always get to eat them locally. The Marine Stewardship
Council (MSC) is in the process of certifying mackerel fishing around the UK as
sustainable, although there are questions about any trawl system that can
potentially harm other fish stocks. In Cardigan Bay, for instance, there are
ongoing debates about the scallop boats out at sea. However, locally the
mackerel fishing is on a smaller, manageable scale.
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