Best way to experience Wines of Bordeaux
Bordeaux Wine Experience – Medoc &
St-Emilion: Part 1
SmoothRed’s
Bordeaux Wine Experience certainly lived up to expectations. At first glance,
it seems expensive - £754 per person for 3 nights B&B in 3* hotel and two
full day tours – but a wine tour locally is around €150 each, and ours included an exceptional lunch at
what the guide described as the best restaurant in St-Emilion plus €20 entry ticket to Cite du Vin so overall it
really was worth the price.
All arrangements
beforehand were efficient and checking-in with EasyJet was the easiest ever. A
late flight from Bristol airport on a Friday meant it was 9.30pm local time
before we arrived, but the hotel was a good choice in centre of Bordeaux so
easy to pop around the corner to find food.
As you would
expect for Friday evening, lively crowds of people were out enjoying a
beautiful autumn evening sat outside bars and restaurants – just what we
needed! A tapas-slate of cured meats and cheese and an excellent bottle of
rich, red Bordeaux wine (what else?) was a brilliant price of €25.50 for two.
Clearly, we were going to enjoy our first trip to this region of France.
Tour operators
SmoothRed offer VIP treatment for guests with just our group of 4 plus another
couple chauffeured around for the day. First class guides on both days,
impressively knowledgeable about the whole wine-making process and the region,
and not even phased by questions about tips for growing your own vine back
home. See part 2 of the report for details of the six vineyards we visited.
We were collected
outside the Tourist Information as planned, near the Grand Theatre and opposite
L’Ecole du Vin, and given a brief description of how the Bordeaux wine region
is made up. Lots of “oh, I see now” comments as the different terrain of the
Medoc and St-Emilion, and therefore the type of wine produced, was explained in
simple terms. No need to be a wine buff here.
Both days start
at 9.30am and finish around 5.30pm, covering quite a lot of the region. St-Emilion
is hilly and the Medoc flat – according to our guide Ugo, they have a ‘sand
dune’ as the highest point at 3 metres tall! Free time for lunch on day one
alongside the quay at Pauillace. Le Petit Commerce fish restaurant is a must,
with a pleasant young waiter who helped us along with our quaint version of
French. Wonderful fish soup followed by the biggest, creamiest crème brulee we
have ever had. A bottle of local dry white wine, of course, plus cappuccino
while sat on the boardwalk in the sunshine and light autumn breeze. Perfect.
And excellent value at around €21.25 each including the wine.
Several more
tastings then back to the city centre, time to change and explore the bustling
square-cobbled streets for somewhere different to eat. Very different in fact.
Glance around the Restaurant de Boeuf and suddenly realise there is a sofa, rug
and coffee table fixed to the ceiling. In fact, the whole ceiling is set out as
a room, complete with a cat and bowl of food. Although people were queueing to
get a table by the time we left, the steaks were so tough and stringy we
wouldn’t choose to eat here again.
Day two to St-Emilion
follows a similar pattern except that the SmoothRed package includes 3-course
lunch at the exceptional L’Envers du Décor plus a large glass each of white and
red wine. This is a beautiful Medieval town so a web of narrow uneven-cobbled
streets, some very steep, lined with every type of store related to the wine
industry. Fascinating snippets of religious history all around, evidenced in
crumbling edifices and the destruction of faces on stone figures on church
walls. Definitely worth spending a few days here if
you have a chance.
As the flight
home on the last day is very late, there is time to explore. Fortunately, it
was bright and sunny, ideal for a walk along the river to Cite du Vin. Ticket
price includes a glass of wine, so again this was a bonus as part of our trip.
It is a modern building with hi-tech displays and as many touch-pads as you
could want! It tracks the development of vines and wine-making from ancient
times to modern processes, with unusual facts and lots of little tableau to
illustrate points. We were amazed to see how long there has been a wine-making
tradition in China, more than a thousand years, and to see photographs of
wineries with mock-chateaux palatial houses – very odd.
It is a packed
tour on the two days of visits to vineyards, with some walking over difficult
surfaces, but each of
the six places we visited had something different to show us and added a bit
more to our increasing knowledge of wine-making in Bordeaux. If you are
fascinated by the how and why of wine-making, rather than just knocking it
back, the Smoothred package is a perfect way to learn more. Thankfully, there
isn’t a test at the end to check how much you know now, but there is a wine
school you could always sign up for.
The Bordeaux Wine
Festival takes place every two years so is on 14th-18th
June 2018. It looks like an exciting event from the photographs of last year’s
festival – may have to make a sacrifice in the name of research.
Part 2 of the blog is about the vineyards and Chateaux visited
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